Friday 19 February 2010

DAY 38 Feb 19 – The Falklands

The Falkland Islands (Spanish: Islas Malvinas) are an archipelago in the South Atlantic Ocean, located approximately 300 miles from the coast of mainland South America, 700 miles from mainland Antarctica and 3,800 miles from Africa.

There are two main islands, East Falkland and West Falkland, as well as 776 smaller islands. The islands are a self-governing Overseas Territory of the United Kingdom and Stanley, on East Falkland, is the capital.

Ever since the re-establishment of British rule in 1833 Argentina has claimed sovereignty. In pursuit of this claim, which is rejected by the islanders, Argentina invaded the Falkland Islands in 1982. This precipitated the two-month-long undeclared Falklands War between Argentina and the United Kingdom and resulted in the defeat and withdrawal of the Argentine forces.

Since the war, there has been strong economic growth in both fisheries and tourism.

The English name of the islands is "[The] Falkland Islands". This name dates from 1690 when John Strong, who led an expedition to the islands, named the channel between the two main islands after his patron, Anthony Cary, 5th Viscount Falkland. The Spanish name for the islands, "Islas Malvinas", is derived from the French name "Îles Malouines", after the mariners and fishermen from the Breton port of Saint-Malo who were the island's first known settlers and bestowed on the islands by Louis Antoine de Bougainville in 1764.

As a result of the continuing sovereignty dispute, the use of many Spanish names is considered offensive in the Falkland Islands, particularly those associated with the 1982 invasion of the Falkland Islands. General Sir Jeremy Moore would not allow the use of Islas Malvinas in the surrender document, dismissing it as a propaganda term.

An early coffee visit to the Lido restaurant showed this area, and presumably other public areas of the ship, were decorated to the theme of 'Winters Wonderland' even with penguins on display. Maybe this theme would have been a little more appropriate a few days ago! Our assistant cabin steward Edgar was there as usual with his Henry in hand ensuring the surrounding carpets were well vacuumed.

After travelling nearly 600 miles since leaving the unfor-gettable and majestic white landscape of the Antarctic, we had our first view of the Falklands at bout 6.00 am.

It was just three red lights, some kind of navigational aid for shipping or planes I suppose. They were just there as if suspended in the air.

Gradually however, as we moved ever closer to the East Falkland Island, we passed little desolate rocky barren islets that help make up the nearly 800 islands in the Territory. Very soon the capital and small town of Stanley could be made out in the slightly gloomy distance.

We passed three working cargo ships anchored in the outer bay as we too came to drop anchor nearby. Then in the distance a small boat could be seen appr-oaching the Prin-sendam. This was the official F.I.G. (Falklands Island Government) launch, presumably to clear us for entry to this little British protected community.

The ship's tenders were launched shortly after 7.00 with the first passengers due to go ashore for organised tours at 8.00. We as usual are just doing our own thing today and will spend our shore time in Port Stanley itself.

There was a strong current running passed the ship and I wondered how this might impinge on ship tendering plans for the rest of the day.

The weather here can apparently change for the worst in a moment. Indeed very recently one of HAL ship's had to leave many hundreds of passengers on the Islands for over 24 hours as the tender operation had to cease due to the worsening sea state.

It was reported at the time that this band of adventurous voyagers had the time of their lives in Stanley being regally looked after by the hospitable Islanders who put them up in all sorts of emergency accommodation. I suspect the seven local pubs all did a roaring trade as it was rumoured they were drunk dry!

No doubt many embellished versions of the event have been dined out on since!

Wow it was damp and cold on our balcony as a slight drizzle started. The biting wind went right to the bone. It felt colder here than in Antarctica. We would definitely need to be layered and have our Helly Hansens on again today.

The two tender boats were now hard at work trans-porting their guests to the public pier in Stanley. A third tender had some technical problems (it was incidentally also our life boat in an emergency) so its intended transport operation was aborted.

Maria slept in until well after 9.00 and we didn't eventually manage to disembark until 10.15.

Our trip over to the Island took about 15 minutes and there waiting to greet us on arrival on UK soil was dear Hotel Manager Françoise, who just said to us,“Welcome home” with a big smile on his face.

He then proceeded to ask misch-ievously if I knew of a good French restaurant in Stanley?

This is a really small town with the main 'drag' along the front called Ross Street. We knew that if we continued along here we would eventually come to the Governor's residence where we might, just might, gain entry for a photo opportunity.

As we passed the Anglican Cathedral we ran into three members of the British armed services, the most senior of whom turned out to be the Venerable Air-Vice Marshal Ray Pentland. He is the Chaplin-in Chief of Her Majesty's Royal Air Force, and was accompanied by the local base Chaplin and an escorting RAF officer.

The AVM was a very engaging character and in the course of the conversation said he was lunching with the Island's Governor, Alan Huckle, in about an hours time. When I enquired where this event was taking place I was told at the Governor's residence.

Now my antenna was raised and we were on a 'head man' photo opportunity mission once again. In the meantime Maria managed to have her pictures taken with our newly found Air Force friends. (The AVM is on the left hand side of Maria)

Our delightful Canadian friends the Fowlers and Gonsalves from Ontario, were also there at the Cathedral and they too took the opportunity to pose for pictures with the distinguished reverends.

As we went further out of town along Ross Street we visited the local super-market. We were surprised to see it very busy with ship passengers buying all before them.

As Maria went up to the pay for something she had purchased from the cosmetic counter I was pleased to see and have a quick word with Frank Buck-ingham who was also shopping. I informed Frank of our chance meeting with the Air Vice-Marshal and out mission to find the Governor.

Onward we then went and soon came to a few Government buildings one of which was on a street with a quite appropriate name! Although this lady was not one of my favourite politicians, I can absolutely see why a street might be called after her in the Falklands.

I was therefore quite pleased to have my photo taken there next to her name.

The Falklands have a highly impressive and striking war memorial to all those unfort-unate British service men and civilians who lost their lives in the early 80s during the bloody war with the Argentinean invaders. We were most impressed with the detail that had gone into the somber displays commemorating these lost lives.

While at the memorial I noticed a group of Spanish speaking men whom I suspected might have been visiting Argentineans, who of course, lost many more lives than the British forces did.

The local Cathedral also commemorates the many service persons and civilians that have died since the conflict in various accidents such as helicopter crashes and mine explosions.

Close by is another memorial of sorts, the preserved mizzen mast of the very famous and iconic British sailing ship 'Great Britain'. A plaque next to it gives a short history of the ship and the reason for its long connection with the Falkland Islands.

It is amazing that someone had the desire, will and then made the effort to eventually have the ship returned to its place of birth in Bristol England all those years after it had been left to rest in Stanley. In many ways it is sad that only the mast remains in what was once its cemetery.

Shortly after this, and a little bit further along the road, we came across two local ladies one of whom had two dachshund dogs in tow. We asked if they knew how we could gain access to the Governor's residence as notices on the drive way advised that entrance was by 'Invitaion Only'.

One of these ladies turned and pointed to her friend with the dogs and said, as a way of introduction, “This is the Governor's wife”.

Well you could have knocked me over with a feather. I was so taken aback with our luck.

It meant some quick and persuasive talking if we were to get even close to achieving our mission.

Mrs Helen Huckle then responded by kindly asking us to follow her up to the 'house' where she would present us with special photograph cards of her husband Alan, as he himself would not be available to see us.

We then proceeded up the private pathway to the Governor's official residence where the wife of the Island's boss showed us round.

Maria posed for photos in the lovely drawing room, part of the original house, and then in the dining room which was set for an official lunch that was due to start within 30 minutes. Of course we had already met the guest of honour for the lunch a little earlier.

Disappointingly Mrs Helen Huckle declined my request for a photo as she said she was inappropriately dressed. What a shame.

Here we were just a breath away from a great photo scoop. However, it was all ruined by the wife’s concern about her picture being taken in her dog exercise walking clothes! I couldn't believe it.

We did then meet the Huckle's general factotum, Gerald, who was overseeing the table arrang-ements for lunch when we arrived but nevertheless still managed to pose for a picture with Maria. A kind of stand in for the Governor I suppose!

Our short visit to the home of the Governor of the Falkland Islands was soon over as we were each given official looking photos of Alan Edden Huckle with a list of all the Islands Governors on the reverse.

Then just as quickly as it had all started, some twenty odd minutes earlier, Mrs Huckle excused herself saying she would have to run and change for lunch.

So close but so far.

One tip-bit of information we did pick-up from the local top man's wife was that her husband, the Governor, was “pretty relaxed” about the stories in the press regarding the Argentineans beginning to put pressure on the Territory once again by possibly restricting shipping to and from the Islands. The reason cited was the prospect of oil in the waters surrounding the Islands.

That was news indeed as the press over the last week or so were seemingly playing the story up quite a bit. If he was “ pretty relaxed” so was I. 'Rule Britannia' and all that I say.

Anything now would be a bit of an anti-climax so we headed back and had lunch in the 'local' by the pier, the Globe Tavern. Fish and chips washed down by a pint of Guinness went down a treat.

Then it was the tender back to the ship which was scheduled to make an early exit from the Falklands in order that we reach Buenos Aires on schedule in a couple of days time.

So two more sea days lie ahead before we can really start Tangoing.

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