DAY 15 Jan 27 - Callao(Lima), Peru

Callao(Spanish: El Callao) is the largest and most important port in Peru. It is located west of Lima, the country's capital, and is part of the Lima Metropolitan Area, a large metropolis that concentrates almost one-third of Peru's population. It borders Lima Province on the north, east and south, and the Pacific Ocean on the west. It is considered to be a suburb of Lima as the city of Callao lies just minutes to the west of the capital. The city is part of both the Constitutional Province of Callao and the Lima Metropolitan Area.

The port of Callao is a particularly historical city being founded in 1537, just two years after Lima (1535), and it soon became the main port for Spanish commerce in the Pacific. The origin of its name is unknown; both Indian and Spanish sources are credited, but it is certain that it was known by this name since 1550.

At the height of the Spanish colonial period, virtually all goods produced in Peru, Bolivia, and Argentina were carried over the Andes by mule to Callao, to be shipped to Panama, carried overland, and then transported on to Spain via Cuba. This must have been a mammoth task to undertake but with an abundance of native labour available, was very achievable.

As we entered the port this morning at about 6.30 I was amazed to see what an incredibly busy sea port this place still is.

A fishing fleet of over 80 vessels was anchored outside the harbour walls and can be seen in the misty picture below. Approximately 20 freighters and tankers were also anchored there. However the skies this morning were overcast and visibility was restricted due to mist thus limiting my ability to take good photographs.

Within the sheltered dock area all available berths were taken with ships from all over the world being emptied or filled with a variety of cargoes.

In 1851 the first rail road in South America was open here between Callao and Lima. It's also interesting that in 1567 it was from this port that explorers set out and discovered the Solomon Islands and also from here, in 1590, they set out and discovered the Marianas and Marquesas Islands.

Maria and I were last here during our 2007 Grand World Voyage on the Amsterdam. As a result we have seen the City of Lima and it's surrounding area and have not therefore booked any trips today. The immediate area round the docks is known to be very dangerous and passengers are advised not to venture past the dock gates unless on an official tour or in an approved taxi only available from inside the gates.

Maria was up and about (after firstly having her juice and coffee in the cabin) early today and although not necessarily fully awake soon joined me on deck to watch the ship come along side. The maneuvering had been delicate and slow because of the restricted space available for the ship to turn due to the proximately of the large bulk carrier from Hong Kong positioned aft of us.

Before we departed the cabin our lovely steward Deden appeared with our returned laundry all nicely washed and pressed. What a great daily service to have. He also showed us on his iPod a picture of his new little son. What a lovely little baby it was too. Deden also presented us last night with another of his beautiful towel animal, an elephant this time. Unfort-unately unless they are moved from the bed and placed else where in the room they tend to be come a cropper during the night so we preserved our animal by placing it behind the sofa on a shelf.

Some passengers had booked a Machu Picchu land tours that would start out from this port. This is normally a three-day affair. After completing this exotic and exhilarating trip to the rarefied atmosphere of this ancient city set high in Andes mountains, passengers would again pick the ship up at its next port in Peru, Pisco, a few days later.

However it has just been announced by the Captain and on CNN news that there have been very serious mud slides in the region with many tourists trapped there. The essential railroad used to climb much of the hinterland has been buried under the local swollen river and the road cut off with mudflows. It would appear that many people will be very disappointed with this news but up to $3000 better off as a result!

We had often thought of doing the tour but the possible need for oxygen at these altitudes and the limited period to acclimatize has put us off. Some of the hotel rooms used on the trip offer oxygen filled rooms to assist people with their breathing. There are often stories about people not making the full trip because of the high altitude.

Our plan today is to head for the Miraflores sea side resort and part of Lima where H. Stern have an up-scale 'World Class Designer Jewelry Store’ for which they run a free shuttle service to and from the ship.

It is not our intention to buy anything at the store but just to avail ourselves of the safe and free transport service (see photo below).

At 10.30 we took the Stern shuttle for the 30 minutes ride to the up-scale resort of Miraflores passing through some very poor parts of Lima en route. The resort area has many high-rise condominium buildings, some good international hotels and plenty of restaurants and little boutique type shops.

After walking around and realizing that I had left my camera battery charging on the ship (stupid me! and the reason there are no photos here!) we went and had lunch. The restaurant was perched high up on the cliffs overlooking the well-manicured beaches below and set in a pleasant shopping area.

We tried some Pisco Sours as we were now firmly in Pisco drinking country and would be for the next month or so. They were delicious and not unlike a good Margarita cocktail.

Maria had Paella (her first in South America) and I had a huge bowl of soup with what seemed like a whole cow in it. It was delicious and very filling. I though I had ordered a minestrone soup but it appears that was not the case. A sole fish dish followed my soup, which was also most enjoyable. Our bill plus a considerable tip was just $40.

By 2.00 o’clock we had had enough so decided to head back to the ship courtesy of Mr Stern.

A large sign by the docks entrance reminded us that this was the premier port of Peru and much of South America.

Some welcome ice cream was awaiting me plus a lovely plate of fresh orange and grate-fruit segments as we visited the Lido restaurant. Maria declined the temptation and would now wait until dinner before eating again. Oh what a goodie goodie!!